Haida House at Tllaal—A Regenerative Stay on Haida Gwaii

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Are you curious about staying at the Haida House at Tllaal on Haida Gwaii? If you are looking for an Indigenous-owned accommodation and, quite arguably, the best place to stay on Haida Gwaii, look no further than the Haida House. A fully regenerative experience, the Haida House offers unparalleled Haida hospitality, beach access, and a quiet, restorative retreat. 

The Haida House at Tllaal is surrounded by nature, making for the perfect exclusive retreat. Sandwiched between the intertidal river, Geikie, and one of the best beaches, the property itself is in the quiet forest. Haida House is the very best that Kiis Gwaii has to offer.

The location is just secluded enough that you can enjoy a fully restorative natural escape, but it also allows you to easily get on the main highway for adventures to the north or south. Haida hospitality is unparalleled; from the servers at the restaurant to the on-site staff, it is easy to see why this is one of the best choices across the islands. 

I spent 5 nights at the Haida House during my incredible regenerative experience across Haida Gwaii. We booked one of the oceanside cabins and liked the spacious rooms, private deck with hot tub, access to the beach, and easy walking distance to the main cabin. We joined them for breakfast every morning and even tried the Indigenous-inspired dinner one night. Evenings were spent with a drink in hand, watching the vivid sunset. 

With Haida Gwaii being a remote, once-in-a-lifetime trip, you want to make sure you are booking the right accommodation that suits your needs and allows you to embrace the slow travel mentality of Haida Gwaii. 

To understand if this is the right accommodation for your time on Haida Gwaii, this honest and complete review covers everything you need to know about the Haida House at Tllaal. We will go over the general property, sustainability, the booking process, different types of rooms, experience packages, amenities, dining experience, and more!

And before we get into the full review of the Haida House, make sure you fully read my guides to Haida Gwaii. My tips for visiting Haida Gwaii are one of the best resources out there to help you prepare for this trip of a lifetime!

• Everything you need to know before you visit Haida Gwaii
• Regenerative itinerary and things to do on Haida Gwaii

It is truly rare for me to write hotel and accommodation reviews. When I do, it is because the properties are incredible (in my book), regenerative, or environmentally and socially responsible, with the perfect blend of luxury and peaceful connection to nature. They could benefit from a little extra visibility. It is for this reason that most of my reviews are positive, even though they are fully self-funded stays.

This was a fully self-funded trip, and all views are my own. By booking a stay through one of the links in this guide, you not only support Indigenous-led regenerative tourism but also support me and the work I put into creating this blog at no additional cost. 

About The Haida House

Haida House is a secluded property immersed in nature, tucked away down a quiet road. While it’s now a modern Haida hospitality property offering top-of-the-line rooms and excellent dining options, this wasn’t always the case.

History of the Haida House

The Haida House lodge has a bit of a dark history. But don’t worry, there is a happy ending!

Long before its Haida ownership, the property itself was a colonial hunting lodge. Centuries of colonization were devastating for the Haida People. Smallpox, the Indian Act, and residential schools tore apart traditional village life and clan structures and killed over 90% of the entire Haida population. Colonial powers came in to engage in old-growth logging, introduced invasive species, and hunted many animals, like the sea otter, to extirpation. 

During this period, a bear hunting lodge was established where people could come over from the mainland and hunt black bears. None of this happened with partnership or consent from the Haida people. This is what is called extractive tourism. It is tourism that takes away from the natural environment and excludes the local community, more than it gives back.

Over time, as the Haida people fought long, hard battles to have their land claim title recognized, they finally had the opportunity to take ownership of many of the tourism assets across the island. They secured the purchase of the former bear hunting lodge and transformed it into a regenerative stay.

A Regenerative Stay

Under their stewardship, Haida House has gone from a place where people come to hunt bears and take from the land to a place where the Haida are able to restore the beach, forest, and river under their guidance. At the same time, employing Haida youth and elders, and earning money on behalf of the Haida Nation, profits are invested in restoring Haida culture lost to several generations through colonization. 

Regenerative tourism is tourism that restores culture and nature in a socially equitable way, even for those living and working outside of the tourism core. To learn more about regenerative and extractive tourism, head over and read my guide to regenerative tourism. 

Not only has the Haida Nation taken ownership of the lodge, transforming it from a bear hunting lodge, but they have also taken back their stewardship role for maintaining the beach and marine health of the area. 

Believe me when I say that as an environmental scientist and regenerative tourism expert, finding beachside accommodation that doesn’t destroy the beach is close to impossible, but the Haida have managed to do that and more!

What Makes a Healthy Beach?

Healthy and natural beach dynamics aren’t always what tourists consider aesthetic. Many hotels remove dunes, natural debris, and sedge grasses, and even import sand. They do this to offer “ocean view” rooms or beachfront access to guests. 

These changes come at a deadly cost. Removing dunes and sedge grass, which deplete biodiversity, destroys spaces for birds to nest or hide from predators. It also makes storms much worse. Dunes and grasses can act as a wind break, protecting communities from tsunamis and hurricane-force winds. 

One area in Sri Lanka removed all its dunes for hotels, and during the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami, entire villages were lost, all for the sake of ocean views. Communities that left their dunes intact survived the worst of the storm. 

So, while Haida House has “ocean front” cabins, they are still protected by natural dunes, sedge grasses, and even forest. This keeps the cabins safe from those extreme Pacific winds and ensures native animals have space to thrive. 

With this, the Haida people can also reap the benefits of ecosystem rehabilitation, allowing them to engage in traditional harvesting of mussels sustainably. 

My favorite part of mornings at the Haida House is the mini (like 2-minute) walk through the spruce forest trail, sedge grass hills, and dunes to the beachfront to watch the sunrise with coffee in hand.

Seeing the ecosystem thrive, with the simple act of keeping dunes and vegetation intact, was just one of the many things that make the Haida House a regenerative property that restores and heals the land and Haida culture.

Haida House, The Property

Ok, if that hasn’t convinced you that you’re ready to book the Haida House at Tllaal, then let’s take you through the property, the different room types, amenities, and more. 

Accommodation across Haida Gwaii is generally pretty rustic. There are a lot of homestays, guesthouses, campsites, and bed-and-breakfasts that, while lovely, can be a bit dated and don’t always offer the most privacy. Haida Gwaii is one of the only secluded and semi-luxurious properties across the islands. I could best describe this property as cozy, welcoming, and rustic luxury. 

With two different room types (more on that soon) and a main lodge, there is plenty of space, amenities, and secluded retreats. All the rooms have modern conveniences and comfortable bedding to ensure you have a relaxing and restful stay.

So, what are these different rooms available for booking?

Haida House: The Lodge Rooms

The main lodge is the original facility, with roots dating back before the bear hunting lodge days. The lodge is the central hub for customer service, checking in and out, breakfast, dinner, the bar and lounge, store, as well as 10 rooms.

Different rooms offer different layouts and bed arrangements to accommodate a variety of group dynamics. The rooms are located on two different stories, with some requiring stairs. The lodge is rustic and cosy, but many of the rooms have been renovated and updated for a fresh feel that honors Haida design. 

Your choice of room may be limited to what is available.

• Queen Room: The smallest room is ideal for two guests with one queen-size bed. This is the cheapest room, with a standard night going for around $289* per night. 
• Family Suite: Featuring 2 doubles and a twin bed, this suite has two room areas and can fit up to four guests. The going rate starts around $329* per night.
• One Double; One Twin: This room has enough space for 3 guests, perfect for friends or small families. Choose between a forest view ($319*) or a river view ($329*) on the ground or upper floors. 

*Prices change year over year and fluctuate seasonally. The prices above show a peak summer rate. Check the current prices and available rooms at Haida House at Tllaal.

Haida House: Oceanside Cabins

Outside the main lodge and tucked away in the forest is a collection of 12 cabins. These cabins are designed and inspired by traditional Haida longhouse lodges. They are large, spacious, and a total luxury. 

Each cabin comes with two rooms, making them suitable for up to 4 adults or a smaller family. The living room is large with incredible windows overlooking the forest with glimpses of the ocean below. The bathrooms are modern and spacious. 

There is a small kitchenette, but it really just has a mini fridge, sink, and microwave. It would be nice to have a small hotplate, with food services being limited across the islands, but the microwave does the job to heat instant noodles or leftovers in a pinch. 

The best part about the cabins just might be the large deck with a full hot tub! We absolutely enjoyed spending our evenings in the hot tub, soaking after long days of hiking and exploring. We would crack open a bottle of BC wine, drinking under the moonlight with the sound of the ocean just below. 

These cabins are perfect for the independent traveler without a lot of budget restrictions, small family groups, or a group of friends traveling together. 

The price of the cabins is more than the lodge rooms, starting at $650* per night. 

*Prices change year over year and seasonally. The prices above show a peak summer rate. Check the current prices and available rooms at Haida House at Tllaal.

Haida House Dining, Bar / Lounge

With limited dining options across Haida Gwaii, having the Haida House dining room open daily for breakfast is a real treat. Every day, you can sit down in the dining room area and order à la carte breakfast items, including eggs Benedict, pancakes, and more. Breakfast was not included in our stay, so it was available for purchase. 

When it comes to dinner, the Haida House has one of the best restaurants on Haida Gwaii. But there are a few caveats. 

• The restaurant isn’t open until sometime in June, meaning those who visit during shoulder season may be out of luck. 
• The restaurant is only open for about 5 out of 7 days a week. 
• There is typically only one vegetarian option. 
• Finally, as a popular restaurant for anyone on the island, even as guests, we had to make sure we reserved our dinner in advance. 

The menu focuses on seasonal and local Indigenous-inspired foods. Expect salmon, duck, scallops, and fresh, local berries. Pair your dinner with a local BC wine or craft beer. 

That being said, it is a fantastic restaurant, and I highly recommend booking dinner here at least one of the nights you stay. 

The bar is open most nights, and you can enjoy a casual drink to cap off the night. The lounge is separate from the main dining area, and is a cozy and intimate space to try a cocktail infused with local berries, or go for something classic.

Haida House Shop

Don’t miss the Haida House Shop, which is open during limited daytime hours. If you haven’t picked up a unique souvenir during your time on the islands, swing in and grab something locally and Haida-made. 

Experience Packages

The Haida House also offers experience packages. We were very tempted to book one of the packages. In the end, we decided to forge our own itinerary and planned an independent itinerary. 

However, I will say that Haida Gwaii is not for beginner travelers. If you’re not comfortable taking a car down logging roads, navigating random restaurant closures, and rural travel in places with limited services and amenities, one of the Haida House packages might be right for you.

Experiences can be for anywhere from 3 to 7 days. You will have access to a Haida guide, Haida-led excursions, and daily coordinated activities like hikes, as well as downtime on your own. Some breakfasts and dinners are included as well. 

Visit Haid Gwaii Experiences to Learn More

Location of Haida House

The Haida House is located at 2087 Beitush Rd, Tlell, BC V0T 1Y0. It is just off the main highway, Yellowhead 16. At the bottom of Naikoon Provincial Park, the area surrounding the Haida House is rugged and wild, offering beach access, and on the other side, forest hiking trails, and a quiet, calm river.

The location strikes the perfect balance of secluded escape and proximity to other sights and attractions across the islands. 

You will need a car to access Haida House and the surrounding sights unless you’ve otherwise coordinated an option with an experience package.

EV Charger

There is no EV charger on site. We had to pre-arrange permission to plug our car into a standard home outlet and run an extension cord out the window. This was supplemented with frequent use of the slow and medium chargers at the Haida Cultural Center and in Masset. 

Our Experience at Haida House on Haida Gwaii

From the moment we checked in, we felt right at home at the Haida House. I could tell that the people who booked experience packages and prime lodge rooms were getting the special treatment, which was fine by us, as we booked the cabins for a quiet and independent stay. 

We were walked over to our cabin, which is a 2-minute walk or so from the main lodge. Our host brought us in and gave us the grand tour of the cabin. He showed us how to use the hot tub, locks, and wifi. 

Once we were on our own, we decided to take a load off and relax. We had a big day already, coming off the ferry from Prince Rupert at 5 am, and spending the day hiking and exploring. 

We arrived late in the afternoon, and with most restaurants closed on a Tuesday, we came ready with a bottle of wine and pizza from the 565 Pizza shop in Masset. Of course, we had to make time to head down to the beach and enjoy the ocean view before opening our wine and getting in the hot tub for the night. 

The next morning, we embraced slow moments, savoring coffee with a slow sunrise down at the beach, eating breakfast at the lodge, and soaking in the incredible nature around us. The Haida House was the perfect retreat, allowing us convenient access to all the major hiking trails, small shops, and cultural sights. We broke up every day’s adventures with these slow moments. 

Our first dinner at the Haida House was fantastic. Our Haida server was so engaged and shared her local tips for exploring the island. We had vegetarian gnocchi and ordered pre-dinner cocktails at the bar. During dinner, we noticed that many other diners were part of the experience package and had developed a close relationship with the staff at the hotel. 

Mornings and evenings at the beach were my favorite. I enjoyed walking through the forest, dunes, and sedge grasses to find the stunning expanse of beach ahead of us. One day, we took off and hiked to the Psuta shipwreck, timing our adventure with the tides. With albatross, seal, shorebirds, crabs, and mussels all thriving along the beach, it was clear that Haida stewardship was keeping this beach full of life. 

The 5 nights came and went, and it was hard to leave our cozy Haida cabin by the beach. Staying at the Haida House was one of the more memorable parts of our time on Haida Gwaii. I recommend it for anyone who is looking for a regenerative Haida-owned stay.

Haida House Booked?

If the Haida House is booked or not your cup of tea, the Haida Nation just opened a brand new, fully luxurious ocean lodge near Masset. 

The Ocean House is a bright, modern stay with Haida Design elements. The same regenerative practices exist throughout this property. I recommend the Ocean House for couples looking for a quiet, intimate, and luxurious stay. If we return, we would definitely choose this option.

Comment and Share

Staying at Haida House truly made our experience exploring Haida Gwaii all the more special, with cozy comfort to enjoy each night, as well as the knowledge that we were contributing financially to Indigenous-led regenerative tourism.

I would love to return and wholeheartedly recommend staying here for any other travelers who care about sustainability, while still wanting a stay that blends comfort with local hospitality.

Would you choose to stay at Haida House to explore Haida Gwaii? Let me know in the comments, and don’t forget to save this to your BC planning boards!